Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Another Rainy Season....



Well, we’ve passed the one-year mark here in Togo. After writing our first several blogs as, in essence, a work report, I thought I’d start this one with some reflections about our service here. First of all, we’ve learned that it’s not true that you don’t do any “real” work your first year in Peace Corps, because just living here and adjusting to the people and the environment is itself work. We’ve learned that while the phrase “development work” sounds pretty great on paper and even in theory, it’s a lot harder to explain it to the people you’re trying to work with than you might think. Even after more than a year in Togo, we still regularly get people asking us for money for things ranging from huge construction projects to eyeglasses to a lunch of rice and beans. Development work as a concept sounds good to us, but it’s a little too abstract for people who don’t have a latrine at their school or whose kids are given chicken heads to eat.

Although we’re here to teach health and business practices and are trying to convey that, they’re looking for resources and money, and after fifty years of having those things handed to them, it’s no wonder that they’re having a hard time getting up the motivation and confidence to try to organize those things themselves. With so many people like missionaries and development workers handing out resources, it seems like it’s partially our own fault that people can’t seem to take the initiative and do things without those outside people doing it for them; that practice has ultimately succeeded in instilling an attitude of learned helplessness and lethargy that have been difficult for us to try to diminish. Coming from a background that focuses so strongly on work ethic and self reliance, it’s frustrating to be faced with such a lack of self confidence and all-encompassing feelings of futility and impotence. After thinking about things like this, the inevitable question becomes “what exactly are we doing here?” We’ve established that we’re working (if the concept is loosely defined), but what are the effects of that work?

We’re certainly learning about another culture and giving that culture a chance to see what Americans are like, two outcomes that essentially qualify as official Peace Corps goals number two and three. As far as that elusive concept of development goes, though…well, I guess it depends on the specific project. If we’re not sure where we rate on that last, I guess two out of three isn’t so bad.

So far, we’ve done some teaching projects on health-related issues and accounting practices. If those things add to the educational experience of those involved and potentially increase their knowledge, I guess those are good things, and even better if those people go out and share that information with others (which I’m in the process of doing with those peer educators).

We’ve created a catalog of products for an association that makes and stamps fabric, although in retrospect I’m wondering if it will ultimately help them in the long run. We did get them to send one of the catalogs to an artisan center several hours west of here and are trying to get them to do some sales calls in Lomé, and if those things work, maybe that will become a sustainable form of income for them. That association is still trying to finish an artisan center that they started building with the volunteer before us, and the money going into that project has been hard to track, making us leery about donating any of our time to that project. Again, the potential is there for creating a sustainable income, if they could just clean up their books and make the project more transparent.

Two chicken farms are working on expanding their business, and it remains to be seen whether we’ve helped solidify good bookkeeping and accounting practices with those groups. We facilitated a loan from the local microfinance to help the expansion process for one and have worked on advertising and facilitated the purchase of an egg incubator for the other, but only time will tell if increased output or efficiency is a feasible end product.

The latrine project with our local village development committee and the creation of the health clinic, both of which are making minimal progress with regard to getting the paperwork together and trying to secure materials and funding both fall under the category of infrastructure, and if we could get those two things going sometime before we leave next summer to give us a chance to evaluate the impact, that would be ideal, but I’m not sure if we’re going to have enough time to really assess those projects. In theory, both seem like they would benefit the community, but it remains to be seen whether the management of those resources will be good.

One of our most recent projects, the community garden, is one where we’re also waiting to see how the management of the harvest goes. We’ve helped with the preparation of the soil, installation of a fence, and the planting of seeds (which are growing, yay!), but once harvest time comes, we kind of want our Togolese neighbors to take the lead on the selling of the produce to see how that goes.

The latest project that we’ve started with the CVD is one that I’m particularly happy about, probably because it involves no search for funds (how refreshing) and volunteers donating their time. The CVD is calling this a “self-help” project, essentially because the population itself is helping clean up various areas around the village. A couple of weeks ago, Joe and I took machetes in hand (which was cause for much amusement, you can be sure!) and helped about 30 Togolese volunteers clear the brush around the hospital and down the road to the prefet’s house to help minimize the mosquito and rat problem. We’re supposed to schedule some other clean-up spots around the village in the coming weeks, and we hope that this will help instill feelings of accomplishment and ownership of this project in the participants. Ultimately, we’d like to be able to say, “see, you don’t need money to take small steps to improve your community!,” which always seems to be the reason why it’s difficult start or finish a project.

Along with the blog, I’ve posted some pictures of our first clean-up project with the CVD. With these pictures, I feel like it’s possible to end on a positive note, because it demonstrates that there are people who are willing to donate their time and effort to projects without immediately asking where the money is going to come from first. The local volunteers in these pictures are inspiring, if only in a small way, and I’m hoping that the spectacle we made of ourselves (we drew lots of curious onlookers, especially with Joe and I taking our turns with those machetes) will stick in people’s minds as an illustration of ways locals can contribute to their own development.

On another happy note, Joe had his mid-service health exam recently, and you’ll be pleased to hear that he’s put on four pounds. Must be all those cookies you guys are sending from home. Keep ‘em coming! ;-)

Monday, June 8, 2009

A Couple More Pictures



Here's one last picture to illustrate the joys of the hot season. This was at about 11:00 in the morning at our house; the best part is that after registering 120 degrees outside, we went inside the house where it was a refreshing 25 degrees cooler: 96!

The other picture is of the masons who are working to make a new door and put up walls at the health clinic that we're starting to get going. The building was a former chicken house that the groupement donated for the clinic. Now it's chicken-free and waiting for walls and materials. More on that soon!

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Some Work Pictures



Joe and I recently started working on a community garden for the people in our neighborhood, but before the fun part of planting and watching stuff grow (yes, actually, that would be fun!), it was necessary to clear the field and prepare the soil. So, here's a picture of Joe helping clear the field, and the results of that work.

More Wildlife for Scott...


Bug Pictures for Scott


Tuesday, May 12, 2009

A Couple More "Work" Pictures

Here's a picture of Joe working "dans le champ" (out in the field). He spent all day hoeing and planting corn, and was sore for three days after.

The other picture is me giving out prizes to my peer educators for their good test scores, with help from a fellow volunteer who was visiting us that day.

If there are other pictures of specific things you'd like to see, send us an email and let us know what you'd like to see. And Scott, do you really want pictures of animals? 'Cause all we've got are goats, sheep, and chickens - nothing more exotic in our area, sorry! ;o)



Approaching One Year...



Almost a year in Togo. In less than a month, on June 7, to be precise, Joey and I and most of the other volunteers we arrived with will be celebrating our one-year anniversary in Togo. Before I give the usual recap of what we’ve been up to since the last blog post, I’ve decided to include a top-ten list that was inspired by a similar list we found in an old 1980s edition of the PC Togo newsletter. We call this the “You Know You’ve Been in Togo Too Long If…” So, here goes. You know you’ve been in Togo too long:

1. If you’re not turned OFF by girls’ armpit hair, but you’re not turned ON by naked breasts.
2. If you believe having a sink is a sign of affluence.
3. If the highlight of your week is receiving a month-old newspaper from the States in the mail.
4. If hearing “même mère, même père” [same mom, same dad] to explain filial relations is necessary to achieve familial comprehension.
5. If YOU find yourself saying “même mère, même père” to describe you and your siblings back home.
6. If you show up for your 4:00 meeting at 4:55 and congratulate yourself for being five minutes early.
7. When you start referring to your hometown as your village without thinking about it.
8. When you wash your hands after eating but not before.
9. If you seriously consider schemes to domesticate the cockroaches in your kitchen and ask around to see who has a copy of Joe’s Apartment so you can see how that guy did it.
10. If you’re craving something besides pâte [pounded corn] for dinner, and you think to yourself: “You know what would be really good right now is some kɔm [FERMENTED pounded corn]!”

So, on to what’s new. Project-wise, things are still moving along (albeit, at a snail’s pace) for the plan to build latrines at six of the primary schools in our village. We’ve gotten a schematic drawn up by a technician and have selected the six schools for the first phase of the project (we’re hoping the next volunteer will take on the next two phases after we’re gone), and we’ve also sent a request to the local cement company asking them to donate some cement for the construction. The village development committee wants to submit a proposal to the U.S. Embassy to get the funds to pay for the rest of the materials, and we’re helping them with that.

To reward my four best peer educator students for their good test scores, I nominated two girls and two boys to go to a Peace Corps-organized week-long camp for students this June, and they’ve all been accepted. I hope they have fun and learn a lot! I also sent eleven of them out into the community recently to do family planning surveys to find out what the local community knows about family planning methods and whether they use contraceptives. The kids surveyed ten women and ten men each, and I got some pretty interesting responses. There seems to be a lot more variety with regard to types of contraceptives used in our village than I thought, and a lot more women are familiar with the timing of menstrual cycles than I thought, so that was interesting. One of my counterparts works for the local Red Cross, and he’s interested in doing some home visits on family planning this summer, so the surveys were a good way for us to find out what people already know and what they’re interested in knowing about.

Joe is still doing accounting with the chicken farm, the chicken/turkey farm, and the group who makes the tote bags, and he’s also started doing some accounting with a small printing and copying place near our house. They’ve been really interested in working with him, and seem to be one of the only groups that really understand in detail what he means. For the chicken/turkey farm, he’s also been working on some advertising ideas. For Schalom, Joe has signed up a local resident to go to some local businesses in the capital with the catalog I made and try to sell some of their products to boutiques there. Oh, and speaking of that catalog, I finished it and mailed them out to Rick a couple of months ago, so many of you should already have seen what I worked on for the first few months of our stay here. What do you think?

The last project that’s currently in the works is this health clinic that I’m attempting to use a Peace Corps Partnership Proposal to fund. I submitted the project in March, but there were some problems with the budget, and I’m currently rearranging that to accommodate Washington’s demands to make the project feasible. Once it’s resubmitted with the changes, the project should be listed pretty quickly on the “donate” section of the Peace Corps web site. I’ll be sure to let you know when it shows up there. It’s my hope that the clinic will be fixed and stocked by this fall. Not sure if that’s a reasonable timeline or not, but we’ll see.
Other things we have in the works for this summer are a clean-up project using local apprentices and the village development committee, a community garden in our neighborhood (thanks for the seeds, Aunt Pat!), a nutrition class to take around to local schools, and a training class to teach mothers how to make soy milk and sell it as one of those ever-popular “income generating activities.”

In non-work-related news, we made a recent trip to the Mono River, which serves as the border between Togo and Benin, a couple of pictures of which you see here. We looked for the hippos we were promised, but never saw any; they’re apparently a lot rarer than we were told originally, unfortunately! We survived our first hot season and are coming up to the rainy season once again, so we’ll be changing back to mud from all the dust we’ve gotten used to in recent months. With only two “seasons” (wet and rainy or hot and dry), it’s hard to notice the passing of time, but the weeks are slipping by us. We’ve been having dinner with our neighbors across the street quite a lot recently, and they’ve become pretty good friends of ours. My plan while I’m here in Lomé is to buy some good chicken and make them some fried chicken and French fries. Not sure how well that will go over, but they’re excited about trying a meal cooked American-style!

Togo recently celebrated the 48th anniversary of its independence, so we went to the celebration for that on April 27, and we went to another party for the Fête du Travail on May 1 (Togo’s version of Labor Day). We celebrated with our neighbors across the street and another couple they know for the April 27 fête; the wife is from Cotê d’Ivoire, so spoke both English and French, as well as local language. It’s kind of surprising how many people you meet around village who speak English! We’ll be sorry to miss the big celebration that’s being planned for Togo’s 50th anniversary in 2011. That should be fun for the next group of volunteers.

So, we’re looking forward to celebrating the one-year mark in a few weeks. Other volunteers say it will all be downhill from there… (we’ll get back to you on the veracity of that claim) ;o). Till next time!